What Ladies wore in the Regency Era
The popularity of the high-waisted regency gown is due to both to French influence in fashion that swept Europe during the 18th Century. Josephine Bonaparte who reigned supreme in her position as a fashion icon, influenced the slim, high-waisted, gossamer thin chemise dress of the early 19th Century. In England especially, daytime dresses were more modest than their evening counterparts. A few French images depict young ladies wearing day gowns with plunging decolletes, but this was not generally the case, and it is a point that cinema costume makers frequently miss. Until 1815, a fichu or chemisette would fill in the neckline. Around 1808, the soft gathered gowns gave way to a slimmer and sleeker silhouette. Darted bodices began to appear and hemlines started to rise. Long sleeves and high necklines were worn during the day, while short sleeves and bare necklines were reserved for evening gowns. The sleeves were puffy and gathered, but the overall silhouette remained sleek, with the shoulders narrow. The shape of the corset changed to reflect the looser, draped, shorter waisted style.
A women's clothing was also a key to her station in society. Working women wore plain, simple dresses, wives of merchants and higher enlisted men had slightly nicer dresses perhaps with a little leftover lace. The wives of the officer and upper classes would be seen in light coloured dresses and bonnets with lace and feathers.
Below are images of ladies clothing, and below them is more information about each piece.
A women's clothing was also a key to her station in society. Working women wore plain, simple dresses, wives of merchants and higher enlisted men had slightly nicer dresses perhaps with a little leftover lace. The wives of the officer and upper classes would be seen in light coloured dresses and bonnets with lace and feathers.
Below are images of ladies clothing, and below them is more information about each piece.
This is a guide to picking the right pieces, and creating a really versatile wardrobe where you can mix and match. ALL items should be made of wool, cotton, or linen, or a combination of any of these, such as a cotton/linen. Any synthetic CANNOT be used. It is inappropriate, and for reenactors, can be dangerous. Not only is it hot, but can melt if the fabric catches fire.
Underpinnings
Stays - The Regency silhouette requires that the waistline is very high, along the bottom of a modern bra. The bosom should be raised up quite a bit. Regency corsets (often called stays) are not hourglass shaped like Victorian or modern corsets. They have two gussets to shape your bosom appropriately, some minimal boning, and some have a busk to create proper separation. The recommended for a first set is a much simpler set of short stays made from Sense & Sensibility’s regency pattern, which is in essence, much like a bra.
Shift, or chemise - is also a good thing to have. It acts as an underdress and stays shield. It should be made of a very light cotton, for even in cool weather, the multiple layers can be very warm. Most shifts are about mid-calf-length, or knee-length. Every lady should have at least two of these. This would also serve as a night gown.
pantalettes - The difference between pantaloons/bloomers and pantalettes, is that in the regency period, the undergarments were open, and the leggings were simply two tubes that slipped over the legs, and tied with a tie around the waist leaving the centre opened.. For the sake of being comfortable and decent, you could find a knee-to mid-calf length pair of bloomers or pantaloons and have the look you desire. It’s not *entirely* accurate to have closed bloomers, but nobody will notice.
stockings - for ladies come to below the knee. There are silk and cotton stockings that are calf; and in some cases thigh-length.
Regency daywear
Daygowns are usually soft cotton prints (very small prints, checks, tone-on-tone prints, stripes, roll-prints… never large Victorian flowers, etc). The neckline is usually fairly modest, and the sleeves can be mid-length to long. The early regency did they have trains, but for practical purposes those soon disappeared from daywear. For the purpose of picnics, teas, embroidery groups, reading groups and other less formal gatherings, a printed cotton/muslin/lawn gown is perfectly fine. A solid white (or other light colour) or tone-on-tone printed gown could easily double as both day and evening with the right additional garment, such as a robe or net overdress. These gowns can be enhanced or the look significantly changed by adding a chemisette, false sleeves (if short or mid-sleeved), an over-bodice, or a robe or half-robe. The gown’s back waistline should end about mid-back and sometimes higher.
Evening gowns/Ball gowns
Some regency evening wear at least in the earlier part of the era had trains, however those trended away to an even hem that did not interfere with dancing. Ball gowns range from fine sheer muslins to silk to velvet. Some gowns were simple undergowns with elaborate robes over them. They were generally short sleeved and sometimes even sleeveless and accompanied by opera gloves at balls and parties.
Stay away from evening gowns made with big clunky fabric designs, made with really polyestery, shiny fabrics, stark-white laces and trims, much-repeated prints, lace overlays made with large-flowered Victorian-style flowers, huge bows on the back, and so on. In the early regency, simple, elegant lines were favoured. An undergown in a fine colour, and a sheer overlay (fine muslin, net or voile) over that, simple lines, minimal trim, sheer elegance. A velvet robe with gold trim. Bodice fronts were sometimes highly decorated.
As for colours, the rule of thumb when you’re buying your gown is to think: What persona am I creating? Am I a married woman? An older woman? A young lady? In general (but not universally) younger unmarried girls and ladies wore white to balls and parties. Older daughters, spinsters, married women wore softer ivories, golds and jewel-tones. This is not the rule, but somewhat of a guide to go by.
Outerwear
Spencers - like a tiny bolero jacket, a spencer is a ‘coat’ of sorts that covers the bodice of your gown, has long sleeves, and sometimes a cute little peplum. Sometimes, these had ‘skirts’ attached to them to make them long coats. Any daytime outdoors event would call for a pretty spencer over your day dress.
Capes - hooded capes were not unusual; they were typically worn when dressing formally in evening wear and going out, and also over daywear. They are not very practical for reenactors.
Regency Accessories
Chemisettes & false sleeves - believe it or not, adding a chemisette (a false undershirt) and some false attachable sleeves can change a gown’s look entirely.
Shawls - Day and evening, ladies wore shawls. Indian saris make wonderful evening shawls. Cashmere is expensive but beautiful too; however you can get 4 yards of any nice fabric to act as a nice, long shawl.
Fans - No large Victorian prints, solids, subdued prints, even ‘oil painting’ like design on it will do.
A Parasol - this should be cloth, not nylon, and have wooden centre.
Bonnets, hats, turbans ~ A stovepipe poke bonnet, or a soft poke bonnet, a capote, a beret, a turban, a lace and voile cap, regency women wore lots of headwear. Married women wore caps fairly consistently during the day, and simply put their bonnets over them when they went out.
Reticule - A reticule is a simple drawstring purse that ladies used during that period for lack of pockets in their gowns. (handy for cell-phone, camera or fan)
Jewelry - Regency ladies wore very subtle jewelry during the day; simple chains with a pennant, cross or other charm. A small string of pearls is acceptable, and amber was very popular with the upper classes. Evening would call for cartouches, cameos, and pearls, but remember, no choker necklaces, no elaborate neckline filling Victorian clap-trappery. Simple is elegant should be the rule of thumb in all regency wardrobe items. Earrings were usually simple drop earrings with little muss or fuss.
Shoes - Regency women wore flats. Depending on where in the regency period, they were either pointy-toed or round-toed. They did not wear heels. I recommend Indian Khussa shoes for evening, ballet slippers for day, or jazz-dance boots for outdoors.
Gloves - Short kidskin for daytime walking, long for evenings (not shiny!)
What should I have in my wardrobe?
A good regency wardrobe that will serve you for many events is as follows:
1 set Stays/Shift/Stockings
1 short-sleeved solid or tone-on-tone print gown
1 pretty print gown for day activities.
1 robe (cotton daywear) or half-robe
A spencer
A straw or cloth hat
A cloth cap for under the hat (if you are married)
1 pair of off-white opera gloves
1 pair of daytime gloves
A fan
A shawl
A pair of short boots
A pair of neutral-toned slippers
A nice reticule.
Underpinnings
Stays - The Regency silhouette requires that the waistline is very high, along the bottom of a modern bra. The bosom should be raised up quite a bit. Regency corsets (often called stays) are not hourglass shaped like Victorian or modern corsets. They have two gussets to shape your bosom appropriately, some minimal boning, and some have a busk to create proper separation. The recommended for a first set is a much simpler set of short stays made from Sense & Sensibility’s regency pattern, which is in essence, much like a bra.
Shift, or chemise - is also a good thing to have. It acts as an underdress and stays shield. It should be made of a very light cotton, for even in cool weather, the multiple layers can be very warm. Most shifts are about mid-calf-length, or knee-length. Every lady should have at least two of these. This would also serve as a night gown.
pantalettes - The difference between pantaloons/bloomers and pantalettes, is that in the regency period, the undergarments were open, and the leggings were simply two tubes that slipped over the legs, and tied with a tie around the waist leaving the centre opened.. For the sake of being comfortable and decent, you could find a knee-to mid-calf length pair of bloomers or pantaloons and have the look you desire. It’s not *entirely* accurate to have closed bloomers, but nobody will notice.
stockings - for ladies come to below the knee. There are silk and cotton stockings that are calf; and in some cases thigh-length.
Regency daywear
Daygowns are usually soft cotton prints (very small prints, checks, tone-on-tone prints, stripes, roll-prints… never large Victorian flowers, etc). The neckline is usually fairly modest, and the sleeves can be mid-length to long. The early regency did they have trains, but for practical purposes those soon disappeared from daywear. For the purpose of picnics, teas, embroidery groups, reading groups and other less formal gatherings, a printed cotton/muslin/lawn gown is perfectly fine. A solid white (or other light colour) or tone-on-tone printed gown could easily double as both day and evening with the right additional garment, such as a robe or net overdress. These gowns can be enhanced or the look significantly changed by adding a chemisette, false sleeves (if short or mid-sleeved), an over-bodice, or a robe or half-robe. The gown’s back waistline should end about mid-back and sometimes higher.
Evening gowns/Ball gowns
Some regency evening wear at least in the earlier part of the era had trains, however those trended away to an even hem that did not interfere with dancing. Ball gowns range from fine sheer muslins to silk to velvet. Some gowns were simple undergowns with elaborate robes over them. They were generally short sleeved and sometimes even sleeveless and accompanied by opera gloves at balls and parties.
Stay away from evening gowns made with big clunky fabric designs, made with really polyestery, shiny fabrics, stark-white laces and trims, much-repeated prints, lace overlays made with large-flowered Victorian-style flowers, huge bows on the back, and so on. In the early regency, simple, elegant lines were favoured. An undergown in a fine colour, and a sheer overlay (fine muslin, net or voile) over that, simple lines, minimal trim, sheer elegance. A velvet robe with gold trim. Bodice fronts were sometimes highly decorated.
As for colours, the rule of thumb when you’re buying your gown is to think: What persona am I creating? Am I a married woman? An older woman? A young lady? In general (but not universally) younger unmarried girls and ladies wore white to balls and parties. Older daughters, spinsters, married women wore softer ivories, golds and jewel-tones. This is not the rule, but somewhat of a guide to go by.
Outerwear
Spencers - like a tiny bolero jacket, a spencer is a ‘coat’ of sorts that covers the bodice of your gown, has long sleeves, and sometimes a cute little peplum. Sometimes, these had ‘skirts’ attached to them to make them long coats. Any daytime outdoors event would call for a pretty spencer over your day dress.
Capes - hooded capes were not unusual; they were typically worn when dressing formally in evening wear and going out, and also over daywear. They are not very practical for reenactors.
Regency Accessories
Chemisettes & false sleeves - believe it or not, adding a chemisette (a false undershirt) and some false attachable sleeves can change a gown’s look entirely.
Shawls - Day and evening, ladies wore shawls. Indian saris make wonderful evening shawls. Cashmere is expensive but beautiful too; however you can get 4 yards of any nice fabric to act as a nice, long shawl.
Fans - No large Victorian prints, solids, subdued prints, even ‘oil painting’ like design on it will do.
A Parasol - this should be cloth, not nylon, and have wooden centre.
Bonnets, hats, turbans ~ A stovepipe poke bonnet, or a soft poke bonnet, a capote, a beret, a turban, a lace and voile cap, regency women wore lots of headwear. Married women wore caps fairly consistently during the day, and simply put their bonnets over them when they went out.
Reticule - A reticule is a simple drawstring purse that ladies used during that period for lack of pockets in their gowns. (handy for cell-phone, camera or fan)
Jewelry - Regency ladies wore very subtle jewelry during the day; simple chains with a pennant, cross or other charm. A small string of pearls is acceptable, and amber was very popular with the upper classes. Evening would call for cartouches, cameos, and pearls, but remember, no choker necklaces, no elaborate neckline filling Victorian clap-trappery. Simple is elegant should be the rule of thumb in all regency wardrobe items. Earrings were usually simple drop earrings with little muss or fuss.
Shoes - Regency women wore flats. Depending on where in the regency period, they were either pointy-toed or round-toed. They did not wear heels. I recommend Indian Khussa shoes for evening, ballet slippers for day, or jazz-dance boots for outdoors.
Gloves - Short kidskin for daytime walking, long for evenings (not shiny!)
What should I have in my wardrobe?
A good regency wardrobe that will serve you for many events is as follows:
1 set Stays/Shift/Stockings
1 short-sleeved solid or tone-on-tone print gown
1 pretty print gown for day activities.
1 robe (cotton daywear) or half-robe
A spencer
A straw or cloth hat
A cloth cap for under the hat (if you are married)
1 pair of off-white opera gloves
1 pair of daytime gloves
A fan
A shawl
A pair of short boots
A pair of neutral-toned slippers
A nice reticule.